I do believe in Ferry’s

I do believe in Ferry’s
Salelologa, Samoa

Salelologa, Samoa


Despite roosters crowing from the early am onwards, twas the best nights sleep I’d had in Samoa. A sea shell horn is blown, signalling breakfast is ready… (To me, this horn is just another alarm I can’t press snooze on). I spent the next few hours circumnavigating the entire island, taking photos and soaking in the glorious sunshine. It’s a small island. The saying, “good things come in small packages” reigns true for Manono. Both couples and I are leaving Manono Island today for Savai’i (the big Island of Samoa), so I’m packing my bags and saying goodbye to my tiny green cottage. Apa drops by to visit me and he’s baring gifts. A personally woven palm frond basket with lunch (a toasted egg sandwich and a coconut water) inside. Such a kind gesture. I’m going to miss Manono Island. For boat transfers, a nights accommodation and 3 meals, it cost $100 tala (approx $50 AUD). Worth every cent. The Italians have a rental car back on Upolu and offer to drive the German couple and I to the wharf, where the ferry to Savai’i departs. We graciously accept. It’s a short, beautiful and sad, boat ride back to Upolu…. Off the boat, readying the rental vehicle was… interesting. Last night we played Uno, today, we’re playing Tetris…. Fitting our 5 bodies and baggage, into a 2 door Rav 4 was a tight squeeze, but we made it work. The Ferry is the only service that runs on time in Samoa (unlike the buses or people), and you do not, want to miss the boat. I love all boats, big and small. Waiting for the ferry, we take a walk on the wild side and purchase some typical Samoan foods that are readily on offer at the wharf stalls. I try what’s called a “pineapple pie”. The pastry is made from coconut cream and flour, coupled with the most gelatinous, iridescent yellow filling you’ve ever seen. It’s a bland, pineapple candy flavoured shortbread pastie (minus the fruit). Not the worst thing I’ve tasted but not something I’ll be buying again. The ferry journey took approximately an hour, and costed $12 tala. I bid farewell to my Manono buddies, catching a taxi for $3 tala, to my Savai’i home, Lucias Lagoon Chalets. The chalet chef, Misty, guides me through a rainforest walk, to my very own chalet on the water. He tells me how the tourists love the “shine shine” (sun) and informs me of a nightclub close by, where he and some of the other boys go….. that I’m not in the slightest interested in. The same male vs female conversation plays out, where I get sized up and asked if I’m a wife, mother or lover of another. I answer with, “well, I… Ahh.. It’s complicated”. Something that isn’t complicated, is my chalet. Constructed from tree branches and palm frond thatching, it’s accessible only by a little ladder at the rear and comes equipped with nothing more than a front deck and a double bed with a full mosquito net. On the deck, the water begs me to take my clothes off and dive in from where I stand.. So I do. The chalets structure is simple with no amenities… but when you’re in paradise, what more could you need? At the front desk, I meet Tui & Henry, two faithful staff members at Lucias. Both boys affectionately refer to me as Miss King or King. Tui books me a day tour for tomorrow and arranges a hire car for Sunday. At Lucias, hiring snorkelling gear and kayaks is free of charge. I take advantage of the facilities, kayaking in the protected ocean lagoon before sundown. Lying in bed surrounded by the safety of a mosquito net, the moonlight shines through my chalets scarce, yet sufficient, tree branch walls and thatching. Below me, the sound of the water slapping against the rocks, as the tide goes in and out. I love listening to the waves crashing at night and running water but this sound, is a little less lullaby, and slightly more sex… Slap, slap, slappity, slap…

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